So this is the first glimpse on my project of recreating a simple woman's attire for late renaissance.
I started working on the whole project about 3 years ago, but I never worked constantly on it. The first parts where a grey gown made from wool, skirt and bodice separated, but both parts completely handsewn. Then I added a shirt with small ruffles at neck and armcuffs - again completely handsewn. You can see it here: [link]
Details at the neck: [link]
and a handmade eyelet: [link]
I am wearing that shirt underneath the red kirtle as well - of course
Next piece was a black woolen partlet, together with that, the complete overgown looks like this: [link]
Now I needed a kirtle to go under that gown, so I got some red linen - red was used a lot for such "undergarments", it was very fashionable, although lower class people could not afford the pricy "kermes"-dyed fabrics, but there was a wider variety of red dyes which produced of course not that bright red my kirtle has. Well, at some points, we are limited to that what fabric stores carry, although it would be interesting to try on dying fabrics myself, but I just don't have time or equipment for that
Apart from the fashionable aspect, red was considered as good for the health, especially when used on undergarments.
The kirtle is made up as separate bodice and skirt. but then joined to one piece. it is closed with handstitched eyelets in the back, and the seam is decorated with a small strip of velvet. Well, velvet was quite expensive as well, and I think I should have better used wool - but I once read that even lower class people sometimes spent money on a small strip of such a pricy material for decorations or a bag. Well, perhaps my character is working for a family that is rich enough to pay her enough for her work to afford such tiny pieces of luxury some time
The kirtle bodice is interlined with two layers of slightly heavier linen than the top fabric, and I put a few steels into it - not very period, I know
but it fits a lot better this way.
The headdress is a simple headrail from heavy linen. I planned to wear the coif from "Tudor Tailor", but that silly thing didn't fit on my head after I've pinned up my hair like it is described in the same book - and *should* fit under that hood *hmpf* - but I'm going to make a better coif, the one from the "Tudor Tailor" makes a good look, but is in no way period apart from that.
I bought the hat at the last medieaval market, although these markets cover the whole medieaval period only and hardly any renaissance stuff, some things are useful for later periods as well, and I've seen stray hats like this one on renaissance depictions as well. It is completely handwoven from stray, not sewn - very period for mediaeval, and I guess that such simple people's headdresses didn't change a lot.
I got the pocket frame from the same merchant, but last year. Well, a simple woman like that would not wear such a noble purse, with metal frame, in velvet and lined with silk, but I didn't have anything suitable and I needed something to carry my stuff around. A more simple leather purse will be following. I already got a small leather belt from the same merchant again.
Well - the shoes aren't OK as well, but they are the closest-looking ones I found so far - got them very cheap, sort of second-hand - they once were some kind of irish-looking tap dance shoes, real leather and very comfortable, I only had to remove the iron plates. Perhaps I'll try on a pair of shoes myself, I have a piece of thick leather that would be suitable. But I have to think about that and if it really would be a good idea
I made a pair of sleeves as well, but I didn't need them, it was a very hot day. I think you will see them when everything is completed.
Now I need to re-do the overgown, I want to join bodice and skirt, like I made the kirtle, but it will remain a front-lacing gown, only with a gap to show the red kirtle underneath. What I had in mind was that lady from Jost Ammans Trachtenbuch:[link]
Which is perfect for the region I live, Nuremberg ist not far away from my hometown
OK - a lot of information on this one. I hope you didn't fell asleep while reading it
- sorry for the bad quality of the pictures, there will be beter ones when I'm finished with everything